Day 2: (85 K) Numakawa - Tesshio - Shosanbetsu

(07/31/06)

Anywhere else in the world, a school principal would be more than a little upset upon finding eleven strangers camping in his schoolyard. But here in Northern Hokkaido, he bid us good morning and apologized for disturbing us so early. Then he gave us a pile of vegetables fresh from the school garden. This was a lot to take at six in the morning. Here we were ready to apologize for using the school grounds and he cheerily hands over a daikon.

The way out of Numakawa is slow going. The differences in speed and endurance among the team members are already becoming apparent. Audrey is having knee problems either because of a poorly sized bike or lack of training. By our lunch stop in Tesshio, her joints need a rest. Emily and I want to see as much of Hokkaido as we can before she leaves, so she suggests to Chay (the group leader) that we split the group for the night, with some people going on ahead. He tosses the idea around with a few people. It turns out to be a bad idea and the beginning of group tensions.

We cycle a few more kilometers to a dumpy campsite on an industrial coastline. Emily and I decide to move on a bit in order to have a much needed night alone. 30 K up the road, the two of us stop in Shosanbetsu at a beautiful campsite overlooking the sea. After a romantic private onsen (for a mere 1600 yen), Emily makes a delicious red-lentil and veggie dhal while I set up camp. It starts to rain and we move into the tent for dinner. That night, warm and dry, curled up listening to the rain with the woman I love, I think about how lucky I am.