Day 20 - 23: (75 km) Ryoetsu - Ogi - Joetsu

(08/18/06 - 08/21/06)

Japan has its fair share of both small hippie dance-barefoot-on the-beach type festivals and mammoth big-name rock festivals like Fuji Rock nad Summer Sonic. The former are amateurish but welcoming, the latter polished but impersonal, and both lose their charm rather quickly. The Kodo Earth Celebration, however, merged the warmth of a small amateur festival with world-class music.

(A cyclist with style)

Every year, the Kodo drummers host a three day concert and festival on their home island of Sado. Throughout the day, there are a number of small events--drumming and dance workshops, smaller preformances, and a festival harbor market. But come evening, all of that clears out as people line up in front of Shiroyama Park, waiting to claim a spot near the stage. For three nights, visitors are treated to some of the best mucic Japan has to offer--the Kodo drummers and their annual special guest.

(Harbor Market Booth)

Ever since hearing about the Earth Celebration, I was convinced that it had to be the best musical experience in Japan. Three years ago, I missed the chance to see Kodo play with Fanfare Ciocarlia, one of the most charming and energetic bands I've ever seen. Since then, the festival had been in the back of my head as something I should do before leaving Japan. If it weren't for the ride, though, I probably would never have made it there.

(Yuske, the waramono--straw crafts-artist)

We were lucky enough to have a booth at the harbor market to fundraise, radiate environmental goodness, and chill. With an abundance of good veggie food options, cheap microbrew, old friends, and interesting people, the market was reason enough to make the trip out. The relaxation reached its peak on Sunday when Amy and I manned the booth, snacking for six hours straight. It wasn't just a hard chill, it was the hardest chill. We oozed ralaxation.

As good as the chilling was though, the concerts were better. After three years stuck in a provincial city where people think department stores equal haute coutoure, any good music and preformance is a treat. Seeing the most highly regarded taiko drumming group in Japan was spectacular. Add to that Tomango, an innovative jazz/urban tap group, and it was one of the best preformances I've seen in or out of Japan.

(Chill)