Day 26: (Rest Day) Nagano
(08/24/06)

Woke up early and slipped off to an internet café where I encountered a sleepy-eyed Pirori, proclaiming "I love civilization!" So do I, but I'm not sure that sleeping at an internet café would bring out that sentiment in me. Still, the shower is nice. With soap, shampoo, and shaving cream included, it's better stocked than most onsen.

The rest of the morning is taken up with errands--coin laundry, bike shop, bakery. Having fresh clothes for the first time in two weeks felt good. Having a straight tire felt even better. For lunch I met up with most of the group at a decent Indian restaurant. Good cheer spreads as we stuff ourselves with all-you-can-eat veggie curry and nan.

All too soon we have to run off to Midorigaoka Shogakko (elementary school) for a veggie dinner. The counters are low, not just Japanese low, not just elementary-school low, but Japanese elementary-school low. Made for munchkins. Washing dishes after dinner made me feel like a little old farmer, hunchbacked from years of rice planting.


After dinner, I head back to the Mitsui's, my hosts for the night, chatting with the oldest son--one of the more interesting junior high students I've met. After meeting the rest of the family and making nice with the little yapper of a dog, Mr. Mitsui, the two boys and I head off to a beautiful little onsen in the hills. There are only two baths--one indoor and one out-- the whole onsen is made of polished wood, the kind that says relax, stay a while, get cozy and naked with your hosts for the night.



Back at the Mitsui residence, we broke out the sparklers for some nighttime fun. The boys taught me how to draw on the asphalt with them, though I was just as happy to twirl the little flaming rods around and take a few photos. Eventually, it was time for bed and I slept on a futon in the boys' room. There was something very touching about this family who would let a complete stranger into their home and then give him a futon next to their sons' bunk beds. No dreams tonight, just a beautiful, restful slumber.